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I'd like to talk about a video I watched a couple of months ago about how traditional fish sauce is made on Phu Quoc island. I came across it by accident. I was on the night bus from Hanoi back to my hometown of Vinh, couldn't sleep, and the algorithm offered me a twenty-five-minute documentary from a small Vietnamese food channel. I nearly scrolled past, because fish sauce is something I've eaten every single day of my life and never once thought about. The video followed a family that has been in the business for three generations. It started at sea before dawn, with the crew salting the anchovies right on the boat, roughly three parts fish to one part salt, and then moved to a warehouse full of enormous wooden barrels, each taller than a person. The fish simply sit in there for about a year, and nothing else is added. At the end, the owner opened a tap at the bottom and this clear, dark amber liquid ran out. What made it so interesting was the gap between how ordinary the product is and how much patience goes into it. I had vaguely assumed it was made in a factory in a few days. There was a lovely moment when the interviewer asked the owner whether he ever wanted to speed things up, and he laughed and said, 'You can't tell a fish to hurry.' When I got home I actually went into the kitchen and read the label on my mother's bottle, which she found extremely suspicious. I've been a bit of a fish sauce snob ever since.