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I'd like to talk about my uncle Binh, my mother's older brother, who has driven a taxi in Hue for nearly twenty years and is, without question, the biggest history fan I know. Everything he knows comes from second-hand books he buys by the kilo, from documentaries he plays on his phone while waiting for passengers, and from chatting with the old guides who work around the Imperial City. His speciality is the Nguyen dynasty. He can list all thirteen emperors in order, tell you which one wrote poetry and which one was sent into exile, and explain why each royal tomb looks so different from the others. When I was about twelve, he walked me up to the Noon Gate and said, "This middle entrance was only for the emperor. You and I would have used the side one, and quickly." I've never forgotten it, mostly because he made a list of dates sound like gossip about the neighbours. What's funny is that his passengers get all this for free. Tourists book a ten-minute ride to their hotel and end up with a lecture on royal cuisine. As for why he loves history so much, I think it gives him a sense of belonging. He grew up a stone's throw from the citadel walls, so for him those stories aren't an academic subject; they're about his own streets. He also says that knowing what came before makes him less anxious about the present, because people have always muddled through somehow. Honestly, he's the reason I stopped seeing history as something to memorise for exams.